The North Overhang is where i broke my ankle around 1988. I did not use the protection shown. It happened about 7:00 P.M. after climbing trees for about 3 hrs., cleanup for about 1/2 to 1 hr. and about 6 hours driving time.
I think i free soloed the Overhang Bypass start and then set the belay. I figured i'd be ok mental aspect wise climbing 5.9 R though it's 5.9 using the protection. I lead some 5.11 and on sight 5.10 R's when the fall occurred. Maybe fatigue at early age not noticed and fully accounted for.
Take away the belay and protection i would rate the climb 5.9 X. However i came across this.
"The Fall" later in this article notes this climb. The Crux.
YDS class 5 rating whether 5.0 or 5.12 by original rating standards constitutes a fall without roped protection as ending with death.
For those who asked at supertopo.com. It was deemed a high priority emergency by Beverly Hills. I decided against a bucket truck as the offset and shock loads (it collapsed with the 2'nd shock load) would have damaged or destroyed the truck and may have caused worse injury or death, or destroyed the residents imported marble entry way.
This type of work I normally rappelled from the outside telescope of the crane and road the load from above without being attached to the load. I was working for West Coast Arborist when the work order was given 1 day after the crane was sent to Larry in Riverside. Believe me we tried to talk them out of it until the crane returned.
I was at work the next day in a ortho shoe now assigned a bucket truck
or the crane and another climber until recovery was over. The fall from North Overhang took me about 2 to 3 weeks before i could work with a cast and ortho shoe. A couple years after that fall i returned to North Overhang with Larry who held my fall. This time he red pointed it using the protection and probably free solo'd Overhang Bypass start without any falls.